This now famous restaurant in Ubud, Bali, was built in the early 90's when the southern approach to Ubud was not much more than rice paddies. In Bali, whenever the land is left to fallow, the duck farmers bring in their ducks to dig for worms and wallow in the water, leaving much natural fertiliser behind them.

This restaurant was constantly invaded by hoards of muddy and dirty ducks straight from the paddies during its construction. Hence the name they chose for the restaurant - Bebek Bengil, or Dirty Duck. Needless to say, cooked duck also features prominently on their menu, particularly their Crispy Duck, which tens of thousands of tourists come to try every year. The restaurant has now become an Ubud (and Bali) institution!

Bebek Bengil has a series of small bales scattered amongst the rice paddies and lotus ponds

Bebek Bengil attracts an unusual mixture of tourists and affluent locals. Both seem to feel very comfortable in the relaxed garden setting. A new extension takes the restaurant even further out into the rice paddies. Popular local and international dishes are prepared in the spotlessly clean kitchen, and served with a pleasant smile. Throw in the reasonable prices, and perhaps you have the reason for Bebek Bengil's popularity.

A rather spicy guacamole dip comes with melinjo nut crackers. Snails can be ordered with miso-garlic bread or stuffed in mushrooms with a garlic chilli sauce. Chicken wings are marinated, Thai-style, then grilled till crunchy. Simple fish & chips are breaded fish fingers, good chips and the usual tartar sauce. Good finger food - the kids love them!

A roast duck salad (right) combines watercress with juicy duck morsels and chunks of melon in a plum dressing, and another salad is of king prawns, watercress and fennel.

Bali's famous Crispy Duck features on this menu. It is a most unusual dish, and available almost everywhere in Ubud. It is a dish which you will either love or hate, according to your personal tastes! The duck is steamed with a myriad of Balinese spices and then quickly deep-fried at a high temperature to produce a serving of very crunchy duck. At most other Ubud locations that I have tried this dish it has been not much more than crunchy bone. Here at Bebek Bengil, enough plump flesh has been left on the pieces to understand why it is a local favourite. Definitely to be eaten with the fingers, and worth the effort!

They also offer the famous Balinese Bebek Betutu - the whole bird has been stuffed with spices, wrapped in leaves and cooked in embers, underground, overnight.

The barbecued pork spare ribs are amongst the best I have ever had in Bali. There are no similarities with the American original as this one is nice and spicy as befits Asia. Well trimmed of surplus fat, they are nothing more than just long chunks of meat hanging off the rib bones. Wonderful!

Stuffed Chicken Breasts (left) have been filled with shitake mushrooms, sprouts and spinach. An unusual dish sees a generous portion of breaded plump king prawns on small circles of mashed potato. In the center is a peppery Asian salad (a julienne of green, yellow and red peppers, shitake mushrooms, baby corn and snow peas tossed in a combination of oyster and peanut sauces). Original and different!

A flattened chicken breast becomes a Chicken Steak, with mushroom sauce and French fries. That old favourite Chicken Kiev is a roll of meat encasing a mixture of garlic butter and parsley, before being breaded and sauteed in butter. More Asian is the excellent Ginger Chicken, a stir-fried mixture of sliced chicken, mushrooms, cashews, green peppers, mint and chilli.

Steaks are good value at Bebek Bengil! The beef is imported, the kitchen produces a tender result, but the price is not inflated! Both the T-Bone and the Sirloin are served with a mushroom sauce. You can choose to have your sirloin sliced and stir-fried with shitake mushrooms, asparagus and snow peas, in an orange sauce and served on a base of crispy noodles.

You can order from a selection of fresh seafood (prawns, squid, snapper or tuna) which has been grilled and is served with a garlic butter or chilli sauce. Prawn Bacon (prawns wrapped in bacon) are something different. Chilli Prawns are sauteed and served with a chilli sauce. The red snapper is grilled, and comes with a lemon caper sauce and garlic potatoes.

Desserts are mostly the normal cakes, tarts and ice cream. Although the Black Russian Pie (a mixture of vodka and Kahlua, topped with chocolate) did tempt me!

Whilst I had usually visited Bebek Bengil for lunch, a recent evening visit surprised me with the rustic charm of the place, with footpath lights along all the ponds and waterways, extending almost out into the paddies. The new extension is almost in the paddies themselves. This is a very charming location.

The wine list is limited but as with the food, the prices are amazingly cheap. It is no wonder that everyone keeps coming back to Bebek!

Bebek Bengil
Jln. Hanoman,
Padang Tegal
Ubud, Bali.
Tel: (62-361) 975.489
Open: 11.00 am - 10.30 pm daily
Price: $40 for two (+ drinks)

This is an abridged version of the full review that appears on the BaliEats web site, Bali's comprehensive restaurant guide: www.balieats.com