The major 5-star hotels in a tourist area such as Bali have very difficult decisions to make about the cuisine that they offer in their restaurants, their guests coming from all over the world. The larger complexes often have four, five, or even more food outlets so it is a bit easier for them to cater for a wide variety of tastes. For the boutique hotels, no matter how up-market they may be, it is much more difficult.

The current management at The Oberoi took a brave decision to offer very high class cuisine under the guidance of their highly talented German Executive Chef, Enrico Wahl. Most of the basic everyday requirements are there but so are many exciting gourmet offerings. Only the best ingredients are used, irrespective of cost. They believe that is what their guests demand and appreciate. I think they are right!

In recent years the amusé bouche at fine dining restaurants often foretells the wonders that are to follow. Here a Tartar of Tuna with caperberry on top, or a roll of Beef Tongue studded with pieces of purple potato and gherkin hold true to form.

On the menu a Marble of Foie Gras with Valrhona served with snake fruit compote and a pistachio brioche, leaves you totally puzzled as to what it will look and taste like. Well, let me tell you it is an outstanding combination! The square of foie gras mousse is crossed with thin lines of chocolate. I was not surprised to later discover that it is the chef's signature dish.

Even more daring is Ravioli stuffed with the meat from the head of a suckling pig combined with Porcini Mushrooms and Black Pudding, rich and luscious. There is more! Warm Unagi (eel) is a pair of fillets first grilled then braised with a soya glaze, sitting atop a papaya salad.

Oberoi for all its changes, has not lost its Indian heritage. Fresh Naans can still be ordered, with plain butter or garlic, as well as a wonderful Sheekh Kebab (minced lamb and spices on skewers) or Jingha Prawns from the tandoor. Amongst the mains there is an unusual Duck Biryani - duck meat with basmati rice, vegetables and herbs. One of the all time favourite Indian dishes is also here - Lamb Roghan Josh. This version sees a whole lamb shank braised with garam masala and is served with a garlic naan.

The exciting menu options continue with the rest of the mains. I have on many occasions eaten Wagyu beef, often wondering what the fuss was all about. Now I understand, although once again I am sure that the quality, source and subsequent handling of the ingredient has a lot to do with the result. Chef Enrico uses the Sous Vide method of slow poaching. Sealed in air-tight bags with jus and spices, it sits in water at 65 degrees in the oven for 48 hours. The result is Wagyu Beef Cheeks or Tongue that is so tender but still so rich in taste, unique!

L-R: Lamb Rogan Josh; Gazpacho; Prawn with avocado and lemon grass foam

As impressive was the Australian Wagyu Beef Fillet, which does not need the slow cooking process, sitting on a potato confit, pure perfection! An Open Ravioli is stuffed with a confit of pork rib, combined with an onion compote and foie gras emulsion

Duck is a duo, the breast being honey glazed and the leg as a confit, and Lamb à Rack with stewed shiitake mushrooms, warm babaganoush and thyme gnocchis. No expense has been spared to present the very best on the table at the new Kura Kura.

For a restaurant on a Bali beach, an array of seafood dishes is imperative. The Ahi Tuna is rare, peppered and glazed, with three different crushed pepper corns; Javanese comet tail, Balinese long and Szechuan. Grilled Swordfish is with red smoked salt and vegetable minestrone with squid, clams and tarragon. The Jumbo Prawns are flamed at your table and served with gnocchetti sardi and dried cherry tomatoes, braised Chinese cabbage with bacon and crab tobico mayonnaise. Sable fish was a shock for me, never have I tasted such a fish before. Also known as Alaskan Black Cod it is found in the muddy sea beds of the North Pacific. Such a subtle taste, so soft yet still firm, it is served with a puree of caramelized shallots and a mix of fava beans and black pudding with fresh oregano. Not to be missed!

A new venue in Bali for that very special dinner, fine dining in every sense!

Kura Kura
The Oberoi Resort,
Seminyak, Bali.
Tel: (62-361) 730.361
Open: Dinner 7 - 11pm daily
Price: $150 for two (+ drinks)

This is an abridged version of the full review that appears on the BaliEats web site, Bali's comprehensive restaurant guide: www.balieats.com