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Teo Pau Lin
Wed, Apr 25, 2007
The Straits Times
Granny's boy

TWO-Michelin-starred French chef Alain Llorca's creative cooking wowed food critics when he was in town recently for the ongoing World Gourmet Summit. The chef of Le Moulin de Mougins, a renowned restaurant 6 km from Cannes, presented whimsical yet seriously good dishes at The Oriental's Dolce Vita restaurant.

They included consomme of fowl served with profiteroles of foie gras and cube pizza - cubes of tomato paste sitting on a biscotti, surrounded by salami and arugula leaves.

The chef, who is of Spanish descent, was born in Cannes in the French Riviera. He started his cooking career when he entered catering school in Nice in 1986. Since then, he has trained under some of the biggest names in French gastronomy, including masterchef Alain Ducasse, and worked in dozens of countries.

He was tasked to take over the reins of the prestigious Le Moulin de Mougins two years ago from Roger Verge.

Since then, his highly inventive brand of cooking has taken it to new heights. The 39-year-old bachelor's cuisine is inspired by the south of France, Provence and Spain.

What is your favourite smell from food?

I like the full-bodied smell of roast meat, with its robust and aromatic smells.

What is your greatest food weakness?

I love olive oil and its aroma and versatility. There are so many different kinds of olive oil out there, depending on your needs - whether you are using it as a dip, for salads, cooking or simply drizzling over your main course.

What food reminds you of your childhood?

That would have to be veal fillet with confit of potatoes. My grandmother used to cook this dish for me whenever I was over at her house. It is a simple and authentic dish, yet full of flavours that burst in your mouth with each bite.

Which ingredient do you think is God's gift to mankind?

I would have to say the pig. This is the only animal on earth that we can use any and all of its parts in our cooking.

What is always in your fridge at home?

Chicken, jam and red wine. As chefs are always busy, we seldom have the time and luxury to prepare an elaborate meal at home. Chicken is easy to cook, so it is convenient and saves time.

If I were to visit your restaurant in France, which dish would you recommend that I try?

I would recommend the paella terrine with clams and shellfish. As it is a typical Spanish dish, it reminds me of my Spanish roots and gives me a sense of home and familiarity. A special aioli sauce, consisting of mayonnaise, garlic and saffron, is used in this dish. The contrast between the various ingredients gives it a colourful taste.

What is your favourite foreign food?

I love Asian cuisine, especially Thai and Chinese. I love how the various spices are used to add natural flavour to the dishes. There's this authenticity about it.

Describe the best meal you've ever had.

That would have to be when I was dining in Alain Passard's restaurant, L'Arpege, in Paris. There was this dish that I tasted which I still have memories of. It was just strawberries but the accompanying sauce was an emulsion of olive oil, white vinegar and honey. The emulsion complemented the strawberries very well. Though it was just simple basic ingredients with no fancy preparation method, it was a beautiful dish with the right balance of taste.

What is your favourite junk food?

Almonds.

Who is one famous personality that you would love to cook for?

I would love to cook for the late Jacques Brel, a famous Belgian singer-songwriter. His songs were known for their insightful and meaningful lyrics. It's like poetry in music. You have to pay attention to his lyrics and understand the meaning behind them. He was very charismatic and whenever he was on stage, there was always an aura about him that made him stand out. In fact, I still have his albums.

WHAT WOULD YOUR LAST MEAL BE?

"I'm not really too sure about this. This is not a thought that has crossed my mind yet. Let's just wait and see what will happen in the future."

 

 
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