At eight, Yeo Kian Tiong was already whipping up different kinds of omelets on his own. By 32, he was the executive chef of Singapore's first Chinese degustation restaurant, Xi Yan. Now 33, Chef Yeo is boss of his own yakitori restaurant, Sumi Yakitori, in Orchard Road.
However, Chef Yeo's culinary journey was not as smooth sailing as one might think. He holds a bachelor's degree in microbiology from the University of Texas, and was an IT consultant for a number of years.
If he enjoyed cooking that much, why didn't he pursue a culinary career from the start? "I had always wanted to be a chef but did not have the guts to do it," he explained. At that time, a career in the IT industry was seen as being more stable and respectable. It was only after the dot com bubble burst in the late 90s did he "take the plunge" to go after his passion and enrolled himself into Corden Bleu.
The drastic career switch was not a total surprise for those around him. Chef Yeo recalls: "My family wasn't supportive at all, but they could see it coming. My close friends weren't surprised either, and they were very supportive of my decision. After all, they had been asking me 'Why don't you open a restaurant?' for many years already."
AsiaOne catches up with this mild-mannered chef.
Do you have any regrets making the switch from IT to cooking? No regrets at all.
Did you find the adjustment difficult in the initial years?
To be honest, the initial years - when I worked as junior cook - were fun. I was able to learn many recipes, techniques and 'secrets' from many a head chef, as I was in a 'non-threatening' position. I was just like a sponge, absorbing all the knowledge they put out there. The subsequent years of being the boss are harder. But I wouldn't do it any other way.
What advice would you give to anyone who is thinking of a mid-career switch?
Go for it! You only live once; even if you do not succeed, you know you have tried. Live without regrets.
What makes a good chef?
Responsibility, attention to details, great sense of taste, good artist, open to criticism, flexible, thinks out of the box... Lots of hard work and a great sense of humour.
What is your most essential kitchen tool and why?
Good knives - they are the most important tools for creating good dishes.
What are the must-haves in your fridge at home?
Garlic and eggs. Garlic kicks any dish up a notch, while eggs are easy to cook.
When you do cook at home, what do you usually cook?
If I have the time, I like to do pasta from scratch, with eggs and semolina flour. Favorite sauces are white wine vongole (if available) and marinara.
When you dine out, what is your preferred kind of cuisine?
I love hawker centres. It is cheap, and I can order many different types of food at the same time.
You were formerly the executive chef of the exclusive Chinese restaurant Xi Yan, which was a "reservations-only" dining destination. What prompted you to set up a Japanese restaurant in a shopping centre, targeting the masses?
Xi Yan gives people a great dining experience, but it charges an arm and a leg and caters to a very exclusive clientele. I feel that great dining experiences don't have to cost a bomb.
That's why I set up my own restaurant. Why yakitori? First of all, I love to eat yakitori! There are a few really good yakitori restaurants in Singapore but they are all very expensive - not everybody can afford them. Yet, not all the ingredients for yakitori are expensive. We want the masses to be able to enjoy yakitori too!
What do you think of the standard and quality of Japanese food in Singapore?
The range is very wide. We have everything here - from cheap set meals made from frozen salmon in hawker centres and food courts, to high end otoro and wagyu meals in clubs and hotels. The only sad thing is that high standard, good quality Japanese food comes with a hefty price tag.
How would you describe your cooking style?
I grew up in Singapore, am trained in French, and have worked in Italian, Cantonese, and Japanese restaurants before. I incorporate the cooking techniques from these different cultures into my dishes.
What was your Big Break?
I am still waiting for my big break. However, I feel that as long as we work hard and work intelligently, we'll have our big break.
Who was your greatest culinary influence?
My Dad. Though he only knows how to cook a few dishes, but they are the best I have ever had. Behind his humble and quiet image lies an unyielding perfectionist. For example, he will study and experiment with all kinds of ingredients, temperatures, timings, to create the best "you tiao" I have ever had.
What is your favorite local dish? Why and which stall you go to?
Wanton noodles - it is a very satisfying dish! First of all, you have noodles. I love noodles. Then there is the sauce that is unique to each stall. Two different types of chilies. Red chili paste to go with the noodles, and pickled green chili. The good ones are crunchy to the bite. Then you have the wanton and BBQ pork! A lot of work goes into this duo. Last but not least, the soup that completes the meal.
I love the one at Old Airport Road Hawker Centre and Jalan Batu Hawker Centre.
Do you plan to write a cook book someday?
Yes. I have started writing an atypical cook book that not only spells out all the ingredients and cooking techniques of signature dishes, but also brings readers towards understanding the heart and soul of dishes as well as that of the chef. It is alive. However, I am way too busy now to continue writing it. It will be my priority after I get Sumi on track.
And what are your expansion plans - start a chain of Sumi Yakitori?
Yes, making Sumi into a chain is my goal, both locally and regionally. When? It is too soon to tell now since we are less than 4 months old.
Sumi Yakitori is located at B2-102, The Centrepoint, 176 Orchard Road. Call 68360912 for reservations. Read review here.
