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The best and the worst of Bordeaux 2007
Ch'ng Poh Tiong
Fri, Apr 04, 2008
GrapeVine, The Wine Review

A quick snapshot of Bordeaux 2007 vintage.

The reds are not, as everyone already knows, of the same standard of 2005. Nor do they resemble the heat charged 2003s. There are aspects of the quality of 2001, 2002 and 2004 in 2007 or what can also be referred to as the JAMES BOND VINTAGE.

Dry whites are superb
The dry whites of Pessac-Leognan and Graves are of a uniform high standard. The fruit is very pure - mostly grapefruit/pomelo/lemon/lime -  and in the case where they are fermented and aged in oak, an added gentle vanilla creaminess to the texture. I did not taste any particularly over-oaked whites.

As for Sauternes & Barsac, because of a longer than expected appointment on Monday, I missed the tasting of these sweeties organized by the Union des Grands Crus. I did get round to Chateau d'Yquem in the evening, which was very good. I hope to taste the 2007 Sauternes & Barsac on another visit this or next year.

Medium-red
Most of the reds are medium-ish to medium-bodied. This is a good rather than a great vintage. The wines are what can be described as "Classic" on, perhaps, the lighter side although some chateaux managed to turn in wines of medium-plus-ish intensity of fruit and tannins. Whatever the weight of the wines, they have delicious freshness.

The first window to approach the 2007 vintage will be 2010 to 2012 for the lighter wines, when they will be between 3 and 5 years. However, such is the freshness of the wines that most will taste better between 5 and 8 years. For the even better wines, they should be showing very elegantly between 2015 to 2017 when they will be 8 to 10 years old. The very best wines should have no problem being at their finest between 15 and 20 years.

Anyone who doubts this should try 1988, a cool vintage but which, now at 20 years old, the best wines continue to charm and refresh. I find 1988 a particularly enjoyable wine to serve at lunch.

Wines to avoid
Our first 2007 report is on the wines to avoid. These are overoaked or/and extracted. Most are dry as stones, mean as lean meat and can suck the life out of an already dead rat. The sensation of their over-extraction would not be unlike sticking an industrial vacuum cleaner into your mouth. Or in some cases, licking the inner bark of a newly shaved tree.

It is, therefore, not unfair to call these "God Have Mercy On Us" Wines.

God Have Mercy On Us Wines
Chateau Grand Mayne Saint-Emilion
Hard, dry, hard. HELP!!! Worst wine of the Primeurs.

Chateau Angelus Saint-Emilion
Oak/wood and merciless. Major HELP! Second worst wine of the Primeurs. Where's the angel in this?

Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle Saint-Emilion
Oak/alcohol. Hard, dry, extracted. HELP!

Chateau Beausejour Saint-Emilion
Oaky/woody. Extracted/dry/tart.

Chateau Beausejour-Becot Saint-Emilion
Oaky/woody like above. Actually, even more so. Extracted/dry/tart/inky.

Chateau Cap de Mourlin Saint-Emilion
Coconut oil and ripe raspberries on the nose. The palate is hard, dry and terrible.

Chateau Clinet Pomerol
Super oak/wood/coconut oil. Extracted. Horrid.

Chateau Coufran Haut-Medoc
Slight reduction. Extracted. Woody. Horrid.

Chateau Dassault Saint-Emilion
Darth Vader coloured. Whiff of Vintage Port. Dry and extracted.

Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac
Scented oak. Greeness on nose. Extracted. Hard. Dry. Tart.

Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal Pauillac
Dry, tart and extracted.

Chateau Haut-Bergey Pessc-Leognan
Herbaceous/capsicums on the nose. Unfortunately, the palate is dry and extracted.

Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere Pessc-Leognan
Woody, extracted and austere. Tasting this, your face, especially cheeks, need a massage to recover from their numbness.

Chateau Pavie Saint-Emilion
Oak/Vintage Port/figs/chocolatey. What a pity the palate is anything but. Dry and tart. Extracted. Green Monster.

Chateau La Tour Carnet Haut-Medoc
Scented oak/staves/sharp. Extracted. Green monster. Help!

Chateau La Tour Figeac Saint-Emilion
Another extracted, dry, tart wine.

Chateau Troplong Mondot Saint-Emilion
Oaky/wody/extracted. Help.


 

 
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