THERE are dark clouds hovering over the world of competitive cycling these days - thanks to a never-ending series of doping scandals that have marred the sport's credibility - but the Raffles Grill is providing some culinary compensation in the shape of its 'One Stop Gastronomic Tour de France'.

For the next three weeks, to coincide with the dates of the actual Tour, Raffles Grill chef de cuisine Jean-Charles Dubois has concocted a menu that mirrors the route of the race, with regional specialities that offer a taste of France while also keeping diners up to speed with news and race results.

The Tour de France started in London over the weekend and will traverse the regions of Burgundy, the Alps, Provence and Bordeaux before concluding in Paris at the end of this month. Dubois, who has been an amateur jockey and whose grandfather was a professional cyclist and aspiring Tour rider (who was denied his chance of competing because of World War II), came up with the idea of paying tribute to the Tour as well as some of the country's favourite culinary traditions.

The restaurant will feature a three-course set lunch menu ($50, additional $30 for wine pairings) of dishes from one region each week, while the six-course set dinner ($180, $118 with wine) will highlight dishes from each region.

This week, for example, will highlight cuisine from Northern France and Burgundy, with dishes such as sauteed frog legs and stuffed cabbage with summer truffle. Next week (The Alps and Provence) will have the likes of French bean salad and Mediterranean red mullet while the last week of the promotion will feature smoked duck breast and slow-cooked sea bass from South-west France.

At a recent preview tasting, the fare was suitably light, tasty and fast-paced, with a notable absence of performance-enhancing substances - unless you count high-quality produce used in various regional dishes. 'The dishes we feature are all typical of their respective regions, but presented in my own style,' says Dubois.

First up was a delightful sea scallop and summer truffle dish served atop a tartlet with a touch of gratinated maroilles (a soft and extremely pungent cheese). The starter was edible sunshine on a plate, evoking a light, cheerful and summery mood and guaranteed to put diners in the right frame of mind for the rest of the meal.

The main course was equally impressive - a Northern French speciality of fresh cabillaud (Atlantic cod) fillet with tiny smoked Grenailles potatoes. The meat was firm, fleshy and flavourful, distinct from other types of cod. For dessert, Dubois created a dish typical of Bordeaux - figs cooked in red wine and prepared two ways (pan-fried and poached), served with an orange granitee.

Such are the culinary benefits of not being in the Tour de France. Diners who are counting calories can always work off the excess on their exercise bikes - that way, everyone's a winner.

One-Stop Gastronomic Tour De France
Raffles Grill, Raffles Hotel
For reservations, call 6431-6156 or 6331-1612
Until July 28
Rating: 7.5/10