THE food and entertainment hub collectively known as Dempsey Road is an undeniably hot destination these days for diners in search of the Next Big Thing in F&B.

In recent months, a steady procession of bars, restaurants and lifestyle-related concepts has come online after the renovation process and the derelict-looking former military buildings that were previously the sole province of carpet and antique dealers are now looking very smart indeed - yet more places are slated to open in the next month or two.

Even as the sudden surge in restaurants has led to more establishments fighting for the customer's dollar in the area, there's going to be enough business for everyone - judging from the increase in the number of cars parked in the area and the difficulty in getting a table during peak dining hours. The unique setting in a prime residential district, the broad tenant mix and the quality of the dining experience are all contributors to a winning formula.

Yes, it's prime time for Dempsey Road - in more ways than one. Carnivorous types will be pleased to know that one of the new kids on the block, with potential to spare, is The Prime Society, a cavernous steak and ribs joint that manages to have an atmosphere that is both invitingly casual and coolly contemporary, while exuding a modicum of class as well.

The high ceilings and exposed raw brick finish make it a distant tropical cousin to some restaurants found in Manhattan's hip meatpacking district. At one end of the restaurant, the industrial chic-like open cooking area is dominated by a high-tech grill, while a bar in the centre of the room provides a focal point and helps to keep things at a manageable scale. An al fresco section overlooks a large soccer field and will eventually come in useful when weekend brunches are introduced.

The Prime Society bills itself as a place that serves 'meat of the highest distinction' - a claim that will of course be debated (and disputed, perhaps) among the many steak aficionados in town. The restaurant has been open for barely a week but already appears to be enjoying brisk(et) business.

During an impromptu visit last week, we were informed that the American-style menu - which featured a selection of starters, sandwiches and steaks as well as a sizeable drinks list - was only temporary, and that a more extensive menu would be introduced in the near future. Still, there was more than enough on the short list to whet the appetite.

By the end of the meal, there was also sufficient evidence to warrant a return visit in the future when the full menu is in place and the owners (who also own the Gelare Italian ice cream chain here) have had a chance to iron out the usual opening period kinks.

The Prime Caesar salad ($16) was suitably fresh and large enough to share, while the steaks sampled - US rib-eye ($32 for a 160g cut) and fillet mignon ($36 for 160g) - were flavourful and cooked to order if somewhat uninspiring, thanks in part to the fact that they arrived in lukewarm condition. The steaks are served on individual wooden platters and come with a choice of sauces, such as bearnaise, red wine butter and blue cheese avocado.

Other items on the current menu include the ubiquitous beef burger ($22) and pan-Asian dishes such as lemon salt & pepper calamari ($12) and beef tataki ($16) starters and a spiced grilled spatchcock ($22) main. Flame grilled ribs ($25 for half rack, $38 for the full Monty) were advertised but unavailable on the night we were there.

Service was friendly and enthusiastic, if a little spotty, and the food took just a bit longer than it should have to make it to the table. The prognosis, however, is generally good and The Prime Society is a better-than-decent addition to the Dempsey Road scene - and believe me, it is a scene.

Prime Society
10 Dempsey Road, #01-20.
Tel: 6474-7427.
Closed Mondays.
www.theprimesociety.com
Rating: 7/10