IF YOU still dismiss the redeveloped Dempsey area in Tanglin as a poor cousin of Rochester Park in Buona Vista, then you haven't seen the new Dempsey Hill.

Comprising more than 10 bars and restaurants - with a couple more opening soon - this has been the hottest dining area since the majority of the outlets opened about two weeks ago.

More village-like than Holland Village, with plenty of greenery surrounding the buildings, the area is deep inside Dempsey Road.

There, former army barracks have been transformed into both chic and casual eateries that offer cuisines ranging from Pacific Rim to Indian, Mexican and Japanese.

To get there, just follow Dempsey Road up the hill until you see a colourful fountain that looks like a cluster of giant mushrooms. You can also enter via Harding Road where you will see the fountain after you pass P.S. Cafe.

Parking is free but can be scarce on weekends when all the restaurants are packed. Which means you'd better call ahead for a reservation, too.

But when I went to Vintage India on a rainy Monday night, things were pretty quiet. Some of its neighbours were closed.

Once inside the north Indian restaurant, you'd be easily won over by its colonial look.

From the building's high ceiling hang two huge chandeliers and a row of copper fans. The high-backed wooden chairs add to the formality of the dining room, as do the smartly dressed waiters.

Service is as polished as the cutlery and wine glasses on the linen-covered tables. My waiter not only has a good knowledge of the menu but is also alert to every detail of the meal.

How often, for example, do you get asked if you would prefer to have a pause between your starters and main courses, or have the latter served straight away?

Such niceties do not come cheap, however. Except for soups and desserts, most dishes cost more than $20. And since servings are not big, you would need at least six dishes for a decent meal.

When it comes to the cooking, it's generally a success.

I highly recommend the atish kumbh ($18). It's mushrooms stuffed with a mix of cashew nuts, cheese and spices, and baked in a tandoor. The nuts add a bit of crunch to the soft mushrooms, and the flavours of the various ingredients blend well.

Another stuffed vegetable, in this case tomatoes ($20), is also excellent. The tomatoes are filled with finely chopped dry fruit and vegetables and cheese, and cooked till soft in a mild curry gravy. The tinge of sourness in the tomatoes gives the dominant sweet flavours a lift while the cheese adds richness.

If you are looking for some meat, try the kadai murg ($22), which is chicken cooked with onions and bell peppers in a spicy gravy.

It sounds simple yet tastes anything but. The gravy is a complex blend of vegetables and spices that permeates the tender pieces of chicken.

There is a good selection of desserts, with familiar items like ras malai (cheese dumplings dipped in milk) and kulfi (ice cream).

What blows me away is the lychee phirni ($8) - pounded rice cooked with milk with fresh lychee paste. It tastes like a lychee pudding that is perfect in its sweetness and creaminess.

The two dishes that disappoint are both tandoor items.

The samarkand prawns ($28) - tiger prawns stuffed with minced crab meat and nuts - taste good, but the prawns are overcooked and tough as a result.

The adrakhi panje ($30) - lamb chops marinated in Indian spices and herbs - can be more tender, too. It should also be marinated longer, as the meat has a slight smell that should have been covered up by the spices.

Still, these are faults that can be easily amended with some fine-tuning.

It would be a pity if such a lovely restaurant gets tripped over by just a few kinks in the kitchen.

Vintage India
10 Dempsey Road
01-21 Dempsey Hill
Tel: 6471-3100

Open: Noon to 2.30pm, 6 to 10.30pm
Food: *** 1/2
Service: **** 1/2
Ambience: ****
Price: Budget from $80 per person