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Fri, Aug 17, 2007
AsiaOne
Dozo

Names can be misleading. When a restaurant has a name like "Dozo" (Japanese for "please"), one would expect it to be an uber-traditional Japanese eatery, complete with tatami mats and ikebana floral arrangements.

Instead, newly-opened Dozo Modern Japanese Restaurant at Valley Point looks more like a fine-dining European restaurant with a hint of Asian influences. The interior is a study of warm colours and dark wooden furnishings which combine to create an ambience of relaxed elegance.

Food-wise, Dozo is like no other Japanese restaurant. Indeed, I would go so far as to say that it should not even be categorised as "Japanese", but "Fusion" instead.

Dozo's menu is a degustation menu - you are given a list, from which you can select 6-7 courses, depending on whether you are having lunch or dinner. Everything is served in small portions, so one doesn't get stuffed. Indeed, it is a nice way to enjoy a meal, provided one has plenty of time to appreciate each of the individual dishes as they are rolled out.

Their dinner menu ($58.80++) is a seven-course affair, which kicks off with the Chef's Seasonal Platter. This was, on the day of my visit, a trio of squid roll, scallop and foie gras. They were exquisitely presented, and looked almost too good to eat. I quite liked the scallop, which was fresh and complemented well by a light, foamy sauce.

For starters, I had a Tataki beef cappacio, which was very finely sliced, and served with shaved parmesan cheese. The parmesan was a tad thicker than the beef carpaccio and hence its flavour slightly overpowered that of the beef. However, the crisp "spring roll" around which the carpaccio was wrapped provided a good textural contrast.

My brother, who lived in Japan for a number of years, had the sashimi platter and remarked that it was quite fresh. He also commented on the low-salt soy sauce, saying that because it doesn't linger on one's palate, one can properly taste the various types of sashimi on the platter.

Up next were the escargots for me, and the soft shell crab (main picture, right) for my brother. The escargots were not bad, though the taste was more subtle than I would have preferred. However, bearing in mind that it was a degustation menu, it was probably necessary so as not to overpower the taste buds.

The soft shell crab and the accompanying tempura were crisp and flavourful, but were let down by the tinge of oiliness that lingered on the palate. If not for that, the tempura would have been among the best we've tried in Singapore, with a robust tempura sauce to go along with it.

Our soups were enjoyable - my cepes mushroom soup was fragrant and served with a tiny slice of truffle. It managed to be creamy and full-flavoured, yet light. My brother's double-boiled beef consomme was presented in a sake flask, while various other ingredients were laid out in a separate bowl into which he could pour the soup.

For our mains, I chose the beef tenderloin (main picture, left), which was served on a sizzling-hot granite stone atop a "pu-ye" leaf. I liked the DIY element of this dish - I could cook the beef to my own preference, and the "pu-ye" leaf imparted a slight aroma while preventing the beef from overcooking.

My brother's herb-braised lamb shank (left) came in a generous serving, and was well paired with a sauce. The meat fell off the bone fairly easily, and had no strong gamey odour.

Finally, it was time for dessert. The green tea creme brulée is one of Dozo's signature items, and it is easy to see why. The smooth creme brulée had a slightly bitter taste, characteristic of green tea, and was topped with a substantial layer of caramelised sugar which broke up into crunchy bits. The contrast in flavour and texture - bitter and sweet, smooth and crunchy - was most enjoyable.

My brother was also impressed by his dessert - the mo-chi ice cream on azuki bean. The texture and consistency of the mo-chi was good - it didn't stick to the teeth or the insides of one's mouth. We were informed that honey was drizzled over the dessert, and that may account for the non-stickiness of the mo-chi.

One of the courses includes a drink of your choice. I chose the Jasmine Fairy, which was essentially a blend of Jasmine tea with a slice of lemon for a citrus kick. I probably steeped the tea for too long, as the taste was a bit too sharp for my liking. My brother's Sage Shiso Mint Tea was pleasant, though he did wish that the mint flavour was stronger.

While Dozo only opened less than two months ago, its food is enjoyable, and the luxurious ambience makes it an ideal place for a good meal with loved ones. Considering the quality of the food and the number of courses, the price ($58.80++ for a 7-course dinner, $38.80++ for a 6-course lunch) is reasonable. Several beautifully decorated private rooms, which sit up to 10 people each, are also available, and would be ideal for family meals and cozy get-togethers. Reservations for these are highly recommended, though, so do call ahead.

Dozo
#02-02/03 Valley Point Shopping Centre
491 River Valley Road
Singapore 248371
Tel: 6838 6966
Website: www.dozo.com.sg


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