BEING the first unit in the row, One Rochester is the closest to the main road and the carpark, but - instead of being surrounded by noise and dust - you enter an idyllic world when you walk up its garden path.
Ostensibly a wine bar which serves a larger-than-usual selection of bar food, it offers varying settings both indoors and alfresco.
In the garden, cane chairs and divans are arranged in groves amidst dense foliage. Bigger groups would opt for the better-lit spots while couples tend to retire to the dim, intimate corners.
Electric fans hidden among the plants stir the balmy air, while anti-mosquito devices keep insects at bay.
For cool comfort, go indoors. On the ground floor are comfortable settees you can throw yourself on while upstairs, overstuffed dark leather armchairs provide a more masculine mood.
The drinks list is extensive, with wines from around the world supplemented by cocktails and boutique beers.
The food is no ordinary bar fare. There is not a fried chicken wing in sight, and instead of satay, you get more interesting grilled chicken skewers ($10) that are served with a nice roasted capsicum dip.
My favourite item is the Rochester Gems ($9), which are fresh shitake mushrooms coated with breadcrumbs and deep-fried.
On the other hand, the pies ($8 for three) get the thumbs down. There are three types - chicken, beef and lamb - and all taste like they came out of a frozen pack and were reheated in the oven.
The most unusual item, however, is the pork crackles ($12). These are pieces of Cantonese roast pork served on soya sauce and sliced green and red chillies. They are delightful, especially the crackling.
Servings are generous so you can eat your fill with just a couple of food orders, especially if you order the fatty pork crackles.
So while this is meant to be a drinking hole, you do not really have to plan dinner afterwards. Besides, you'll be so comfortable you won't want to move anyway.
One Rochester
No. 1 Rochester Park
Tel: 6773-0070
Opening hours: 6pm to 1am on weekdays, 6pm to 2am on weekends
Food: **1/2
Service: ***
Ambience: ****1/2
Price: Just food alone should cost you less than $15 per person. Drinks range from about $10 for mocktails to wines that go from $11 a glass to more than $600 for its priciest bottle.
