THE litmus test for any new restaurant, we're told, is not how crowded it is in its first few months, but whether it can still bring in the crowd in its second year. Once it clears that crucial hurdle, the restaurant knows it can comfortably settle in for the long haul. In the case of San Marco, it's signed on for another two years at the Lighthouse in the Fullerton Singapore, and it shows no sign of losing favour with diners.
Of course, having a location with a majestic view of the waterfront is already half the battle won. Some have even said that location comes first and food quality second at San Marco, the Italian-themed outlet in the Saint Pierre group. But under the stewardship of co-owner Roxan Villareal and new(ish) chef Paul Froggart, San Marco has achieved a solid stable menu with enough twists to make it interesting.
To be sure, one has always wondered about the culinary identity of San Marco. It says it's Italian but in truth, that's a bit of a stretch. The chef is English. Villareal is French. The new maitre 'd is Belgian. The food has never been recognisably Italian apart from the mention of pastas, risottos and Italian ingredients - look closely and its heart and soul is still French or at least modern European.
But we're not complaining because French-trained Froggart who was Emmanuel Stroobant's No. 2 at Saint Pierre before moving to San Marco is doing a credible job creating his own style of cuisine while retaining the essence of Italy through its ingredients.
Hence you will find ravioli ($34) on his menu, but it won't be heavy or unctuous. Its filling of shredded braised pork neck is mixed with pine nuts and sun-dried tomatoes for a lighter, deliciously chewy-textured morsel of stuffed pasta that is simply served with a jus reduction and a rocket salad.
Froggart's Italian-inspired creativity goes further with a basil infused cannelloni ($34) that he fills with langoustine and dresses with lobster bisque cream, lifting the dish with acidity from confit tomatoes. Italian? Nah. Good? Not bad at all.
The current summer menu features seasonal flavours, and a decadent starter would be the low temperature soft-boiled quail's eggs, delicately partnered with asparagus, chervil ricotta dumplings and generous shavings of French summer truffles ($36).
While the first few dishes tickled the palate but left no strong impression, Froggart's main courses did. A pan-seared pigeon ($68) was perfectly done - tender and succulent with crispy crusted sweetbread, roasted salsify and a romanesco salad. There was also a stroke of creative genius in the slow-cooked sea trout ($62) - glistening sashimi-like in the midst of a colourful palette comprising bright salad, intense herb puree and a lovely scented lavender and parmesan sauce that will convert those averse to its perfume. All the elements fell into place in perfect harmony.
Dessert-wise, it's good that Villareal still has his pastry chef wits about him, because the sweets here are smartly executed. His understanding of flavour combinations means he can work an odd combination of olive financier, roast apricot and Guinness stout ice cream ($18)into a joyous rhapsody. Taken on its own, the somewhat bitter ice cream is a little strong, but mixed with the tangy apricot, olive-scented cake and rounded off with pine nut cream and a sesame tuille, you can truly appreciate its depth of flavours.
Even a simple dessert of strawberries sauted in dark sugar ($22) with vanilla ice cream gets a stylish update with limoncello emulsion.
There are still more levels to go before San Marco rises to the top of its game. It's definitely going in the right direction as proven by its regulars who seem to be with it for the long haul too.
