JUST as Singlish, Jack Neo movies and an increase in GST are essential elements of the Singaporean experience, buffet meals will be forever etched in our culinary landscape. While the mechanics of a visit to the buffet table haven't changed much, this once-humble cousin to the sit-down meal is a lot more than just a cost-efficient way to sample as many dishes at once.
Singapore restaurants have developed the art of the buffet to such an extent that it is now possible to pay well over $100 for the privilege of a buffet brunch. Some establishments stock their salad bars with traditionally high-priced items such as oysters and sashimi or - as is increasingly popular these days - transform the dining room into a multi-ethnic space with specialised food stations where instead of helping yourself, servers in well-pressed chef whites slice, dice and entice you with their tasty offerings.
The buffet spread at Orchard Cafe, just off the lobby in the Orchard Hotel, revives pleasant memories of less complicated times with a compact and effective layout and a less-than-overwhelming, but more-than-sufficient selection of dishes. At one time, it was a favoured late-night stop for people in search of a Taiwanese porridge fix (this has been reintroduced in the hotel's mezzanine lounge), but the cafe has developed into a reliable destination for buffet lovers.
Currently playing at Orchard, so the speak, is a Korean cuisine promotion, featuring guest chefs from the Millenium Seoul Hilton. Chefs KJ Yoon and Gu Yong Hoi have spent an extended time in Singapore coming up with a repertoire of popular Korean dishes and passing on the recipes to the hotel's resident chefs.
Given Singapore's - and this region's - love affair with Korean culture, stemming from a steady diet of imported TV serials and movies, it is no surprise that Korean food is enjoying a renaissance of sorts, with new restaurants opening here on a regular basis and an upsurge in visitors to Korea. Apart from standard fare such as barbecue beef, ginseng chicken and spicy tofu stew, though, Korean food can still be pretty much of a mystery to the average Singaporean.
Of course, you don't have to know exactly what it is for it to taste good, and the advantage of the buffet format, of course, is that there's always a chance of stumbling upon a mystery dish that could turn out to be a real winner in your culinary book. That's where the dishes concocted by chefs Yoon and Gu come in. The selection at Orchard Cafe changes slightly each day, in order to include as many different dishes as possible.
The disadvantage of the buffet format is that keeping the food at the optimum temperature is practically impossible, at least after the first few minutes or so. It's a good thing, then, that many Korean items are best eaten at room temperature, including the side dishes known collectively as panchan - such as salads, boiled vegetables and pickles - that traditionally accompany each meal. Several examples of panchan are available at Orchard Cafe. There are assorted other dishes to pile onto your plate, such as the ubiquitous kalbi and bulgogi barbecue beef, soy bean paste soup, seafood pancake, spicy noodles, stews and bibimbap (mixed vegetable rice).
The chefs, who have travelled for food promotions to places like India and Japan, have tweaked some recipes slightly to cater to local taste buds, but in general, the food remains reasonably authentic. For diners looking for a culinary introduction to Korean cuisine, the buffet is a foolproof if not exactly perfect solution. Those with more sophisticated tastes may wish to explore a restaurant proper.
Buffet luncheon is from noon to 2.30pm (Mon to Sat) at $40 per person ($22 per child) and buffet dinner is from 6pm to 10.30pm at $46 per person ($25 per child). Prices vary slightly on Sundays.
Kimchi Affair, Orchard Cafe
Orchard Hotel
From now till Sept 9
For reservations, call 6739-6565.
