THE original Trattoria Lafiandra began as a tiny outlet in Prinsep Street, building its reputation through word of mouth. Even if it was outshadowed by bigger names with stronger PR and marketing savvy, the home-style goodness of Cataldo Lafiandra's cooking kept people coming back.

So much so that he has opened a larger space at the Singapore Art Museum premises on Bras Basah Road. And continuing the spirit of the original, the new restaurant has lost none of its unpretentious charm.

What other restaurateur would allow his precocious young daughters, still in their school uniforms, to cavort in the spacious premises, their high-energy antics albeit restricted to the entrance rather than in the dining area proper? In the meantime, a somewhat hapless chef Lafiandra can be overheard almost barking into his mobile, 'Where are you? The children are running around here!'

The two girls are quickly rounded up though they are not annoying anyone (except maybe their papa). Still, their presence, the overall casual and charmingly un-slick ambience boost the appeal of this restaurant.

Of course, none of this would mean anything if the food wasn't up to mark. But it is, and if you want honest-to-goodness cooking at fair prices, you're in the right place.

The $23.90 set lunch is good value, featuring main courses like Saltimboca or medallions of pork loin layered with parma ham and pan fried, paired with creamy mashed potatoes and a tasty gravy.

This dish is also on the ala carte menu at a higher price, which is which is why the set lunch is more than worth it.

It came with a comfortingly yummy eggplant parmigiana-like starter of meltingly tender eggplant and chewy cheese in a tomato sauce. It's a winning mellowness that beats other overly strong versions. Dessert is a simple panna cotta or sorbet.

Service is warm, thanks to the experienced head server whose easygoing and professional manner makes you feel very welcome.

The kitchen can be slow and the other staff are much less experienced but it was not a major issue.

From the a la carte menu, the seafood soup ($11.90) is a winner with a generous serving of squid, shrimp, fish, clams and mussels in, again, a mellow tomato-flavoured fish stock.

The pizza ($19.90 for the capriccioso) is very decent - super thin and crispy even if the salami, artichoke and olive topping was just so-so.

The pastas are homey-tasting, particularly the spaghetti with prawns and zucchini ($21.90) which was of very decent quality.

Don't expect bells and whistles or designer decor at Trattoria Lafiandra. Neither is it a place to impress anybody at. Here, the food speaks for itself, and as far as comforting flavours and good value are concerned, it speaks volumes.

Rating: 7/10

Trattoria Lafiandra Al Museo
171 Bras Basah Road
Tel: 68844035