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Timmy Tan
Wed, Nov 15, 2006
The Straits Times
To John, from the King of Siam

As someone would say, there is no present without the past.

As someone would say, there is no present without the past. Indeed, true-blue watch collectors know that watch collecting is not just for the rich who think of buying luxury pieces as status symbols. Instead, they know - and appreciate - that it is all about owning something that you personally like and enjoy.

Many of the mechanical wristwatches of today have drawn inspirations for their movements from pocket watches of the past. And many of these pocket watches have a story to tell - especially those owned by famous names in history.

Many such rare pocket watches that still exist can only be viewed at a few watch museums around the world.

Not only do they say something about their owners, these "living" time machines provide insights into bygone eras.

For both historical and modern collectible pieces, the technology used to make the watch, the materials used, and the craftsmen's skills, can all be told through the timepiece. As Mr Philippe Sstern, president of Patek Philippe, said: "Watches represent the evolution of mankind."

HISTORICAL

History mystery

Currently on display at the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, the keyless-winding pocket watch (above), made between 1891 and 1897, was sold in September 1897 to Chulalongkorn (1853 to 1910), King of Siam, for 250 francs. The case back bears the engraving: "Chulalonkorn Rex Siamensis to John Anderson Singapore 10 December 1897".

Who was John Anderson? And why was the word "Singapore" inscribed on the pocket watch? Was Mr Anderson from Singapore? How was he related to the King of Siam? Surprisingly, there are no answers to these questions.

"We have no idea why 'Singapore' was engraved on the case," said Mr Arnaud Tellier, director of the Patek Philippe Museum.

"The King of Siam bought 78 Patek Philippe watches, and many of them went to his 77 children and 92 wives. Some of these watches could have been presented as gifts to important guests of another city or country."

Fifth most expensive

This pocket watch was presented to King Fouad Ii by the Swiss community in Egypt in July 1929 to mark his visit to Switzerland. Dubbed the King Fouad pocket watch, it is the fifth most expensive pocket watch in the world. Made by Vacheron Constantin, it was auctioned off by Antiquorum early this year for 3.3 million Swiss francs. It took three-and-a-half years to produce this pocket watch, which has 12 complications.

Solid gold

Open-faced, key winding pendant-watch made in 1850 or 1851, in yellow gold. Sold to Queen Victoria on Sept 30, 1851, at the Great Exhibition of London at Crystal Palace in Hyde Park for 612.50 francs.

President's prize

This Esmeralda Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is one of the most famous timepieces made by Girard-Perregaux. The Esmeralda was owned by Porfirio Diaz (1830 to 1915), who was Mexico?s President from 1876 to 1911.

COLLECTIBLES

The merits of le M�rit

The Tourbillon Pour le M�rit from A. Lange & S�hne, which was launched more than 10 years ago, uses the fusee-and-chain constant force transmission, which optimises the regularity of the beat in this mechanical watch. Since its launch, the timepiece has almost trebled in value.

If you missed out on that, you might want to consider the recently launched Tourbograph Pour le M�rit . Priced at more than $300,000, it offers the best of both worlds as it incorporates the tourbillon with the fusee-and-chain transmission and the double split chronograph.

Rare one

This is one of the few manual-winding Swatch watches made. There are only 2,222 Swatch Diaphane One watches in the world. This highly engaging watch has a rotating cage with the escapement wheel and balance wheel rotating around the centre axis once every 30 minutes. This essentially means that you get a different view once every two minutes. The Swatch Diaphane One has an intriguing movement that some have mistaken for a tourbillon or carousel.

Simply divine

The Octa Divine from FP Journe is among the few ladies' pieces featuring complications. Besides the date display, there is a power reserve indicator and a moon phase indicator. What is even better is the use of black mother-of-pearl for the dial, turning this into a spectacular piece for ladies. Perhaps even more attractive is its exclusivity: only five such pieces were made.


Vintage finds

There was a time when buying anything second- hand was taboo unless you could not afford to buy it new. These days, discerning consumers are turning to the pre-owned market for good bargains. Where can the savvy watch shopper on the lookout for a really good buy go for well kept pre-owned pieces? Here are some great shops worth checking out.

Monster Time
14 Scotts Road, #03-99
Far East Plaza
Website: www.monster-time.com

After observing a growing demand for pre-owned and vintage watches, Mr Alvin Lye decided to start his own shop in 1996, and named it Time Antiques, before switching to the name Monster Time in 2003.

Located at one of the trendiest zones in town, you may half expect the shop to offer only funky watches that will appeal to young customers. But you can find a range of pre-owned and vintage watches from renowned brands such as Bvlgari, Franck Muller, Omega, and Rrolex.

Monster Time also carries the newly launched watch brand, Azimuth, which is known for its avant-garde designs.

"Generally, a pre-owned watch can be as much as 30 per cent cheaper than a brand new piece, yet the quality can be as good. There are also pieces that are no longer in production, or pieces that cannot be found in retail shops," said Mr Lye.

Bonfield Traders
48 Tanglin Hhalt, Road #01-329
Website: www.bonfield.com.sg

Owner Eric Ong is a true blue watch connoisseur. In the business for over 20 years, he knows what makes a watch an art piece - from the exterior case, strap and dial to the interior mechanisms and springs that make a watch tick.

"Some people think that watches are all machine-made these days, but you still need the human touch to make it perfect. And it is this human touch that turns a watch into an exquisite piece of art," he said.

Bonfield is one of the few shops islandwide that offers a full suite of in-house repair and restoration services (particularly for premium watches), including polishing, tooling and plating.

Mr Ong is also a trained jeweller, fully certified by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). From next year, Bonfield plans to make available certificates of authentication that will attach a value to your timepieces, so that you can insure them against loss or damage.

Bezel - The Watch Collectors' Guild
390 Orchard Road, #B1-01 Palais Renaissance
Website: www.bezel.com.sg

Opened in November 2003, Bezel offers an unusual watch club concept that allows watch enthusiasts and collectors to get together and share information. The club organises monthly talks and seminars for members to encourage the appreciation of watches.


"We are also a trading platform for pre-owned watch buyers and sellers," said Mr Darren Tan (left), general manager of Bezel. "We accept watches on consignment from our members and deposit them in the shop for sale. We advise sellers on the price range for their watches and repair or restoration works to ensure that the watches are in selling condition.

"The selling price is still determined by the owner. There is no showcase rental fee or consultancy fee. We earn a commission on the selling price when the watch is sold."

However, charges apply for repair or restoration services, as well as any web listing requested by the seller. Bezel is also the distributor and retailer for four independent brands - Alpina, Frederique Constant, Vogard and Wyler Vetta.

-Jessey Beh

 

 
STORY INDEX
 
  Why split-second chronos cost so much
   
 
  The latest watch news for 2007
   
 
  Who really makes their own watches?
   
 
  Once upon a time
   
 
  Exult in luxury
   
 
  The joy of flying high
   
 
  Sparkling stars
   
 
  Many faces of time
   
 
  To dive for
   
 
  Speed thrills
   
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