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Timmy Tan
Tue, Nov 13, 2007
Festival of Watches, Special Projects Unit
On the watch list

THE early watches had only one hand. With one hand, telling the precise time to the minute posed a challenge, as it could only be estimated. One-hand watches feature the hour indicator and the minutes are approximated on the markers of the dial.

English watchmaker Daniel Quare introduced the minute hand in 1691, but it was only in the early 18th century that incorporating the minute hand in a watch became more widespread.

A basic two-hand watch with the hour and minute hands can be elegant if well designed. One drawback is that it may be difficult to determine at a glance if such timepieces are functioning. Three-hand watches have indicators for the hour, minute and second hands and it is easy to determine if the watch is running by observing the constantly revolving second hand.

The Piaget Magic Hour is a fine example of an elegant two-hand timepiece. What is interesting is how this ovularshaped watch can be turned into three different-looking versions. At a horizontal position, just turn the bezel till it is locked at a 45-degree angle. If you are tired of this look, turn the bezel again till it is at a vertical position.

The use of ceramic in watches has become very trendy of late not just because it looks and feels good but also because the material is resistant to scratches and it is durable. A number of brands have used ceramic in watches, such as Rado, which has been using ceramic since 1986, and Panerai.

Complications in watches are generally defined as any other functions in addition to the visual display of time. One such complication is the power reserve display. The iconic Bulgari-Bulgari collection, which was refreshed in 2006, has one such piece that has a power reserve display indicating the level of power remaining in the watch for it to run autonomously.

Another poetic complication is the moon-phase display. This is not merely a decorative feature on a watch but, as the name implies, it is a moon-phase indicator that tracks the cycle of the moon which lasts around 29.5 days. To be more precise - 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds.

Not all watches with this function can provide an accurate display. This does not apply for the Hermes Cape Cod Moon Phases, which is able to display the phases of the moon accurately for 122 years and 46 days, after which a correction of one day is required.

A few watch brands have been introducing or expanding their line of mechanical watches for women due to the growing demand for them. Besides elegant watches like the stunning Millenary Starlit Sky collection from Audemars Piguet, there is a sports watch like Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Compressor Diving GMT Lady, which women can use while swimming or diving as it is water resistant to 300m.

Sports watches for men include the Aquanaut collection from Patek Philippe, and Tag Heuer with its Grand Carrera collection.

When it comes to complications, how many can be packed into a wristwatch? The top prize probably goes to Franck Muller with its Mega Aeternitas, which has 20 complications.


The Perpetual Calendar offers the convenience of never having to adjust the date at the end of the month. It recharges itself continuously in any kind of light to run forever. This watch features an alarm and local time. Functions can be changed by use of the crown. RRP: $680 including GST

Louis Erard offers affordably-priced timepieces such as this 1931 Classic - Moon Phase. RRP: $2,650 before GST

Two-hand Piaget Magic Hour 18K gold watch with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds of approximately 1.1 carats. Note how the watch can be worn in three different ways. RRP: $33,640

The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Phase de Lune features the moon-phase display, calendar date pointer, and the day and month displays. RRP: $8,900

Water resistant to 300m, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Lady GMT can be used for water activities. RRP: $13,300

The Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Calibre 8 RS Grande-Date GMT has a large date display and a second time zone, which is indicated by the rotating system. RRP: $6,100

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5167 is water resistant to 120m. RRP: $22,800

The Bulgari-Bulgari with the power reserve display - the indicator from 0 to 72 informs the owner how many hours of autonomous power remains. RRP: $23,600

Hermes Cape Cod Moon Phases in rose gold. This piece can display the phases of the moon accurately for 122 years and 46 days before a correction is required. RRP: $47,390

The most complicated wristwatch is the Franck Muller Mega Aeternitas with 20 complications. RRP: unavailable

This watch from the captivating Audemars Piguet Starlit Sky collection features the moon-phase display, the calendar date indicator and the power reserve display. RRP: $66,000

Panerai Radiomir Black Seal with ceramic case. Ceramic is a scratch-resistant and durable material. RRP: $9,800
 

 
STORY INDEX
 
  On the watch list
   
 
  More than a box to keep good time
   
 
  Horology centre
   
 
  When passion strikes
   
 
  More than a pretty face
   
 
  Top calibre
   
 
  All about time
   
 
  Pieces to cherish
   
 
  A matter of seconds
   
 
  Who really makes their own watches?
   
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