Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2004, $80

WHEN I first started drinking wine, the issue I always had with mega wine companies and their massive portfolio of wines was: Where do I start?

Each wine brand has developed its own way of guiding wine drinkers - Penfolds has its Thomas Hyland or Bin range, and Wolf Blass has, well, colours.

It took me a while before I really understood - and remembered - what the colours said about the wines.

The fine 1998 Platinum Label, for instance, reigns over the rest as it is made with the best Shiraz grapes in the Wolf Blass vineyards.

Despite my belated appreciation of Wolf Blass wines, I've always admired the brand for its quality.

When the German-born Wolfgang Blass visited Singapore - a rare occasion - a few months ago, he shared this: 'When I started in 1973, I told my staff, if there are no medals, there would be no job for you. A winemaker has to be competitive. The people I employ must be winners.'

Another characteristic of his brand is its innovation - all the wines are now under screwcap. In fact, it was the top wines which went under the screwcap first.

'We have to go where others can only dream about,' said Blass.

This was the man who was once rejected by Bordeaux heavyweights such as Mouton Rothschild and Latour before Australian wines gained recognition.

Today, his wines fall under seven colour categories - Platinum, Black, Grey, Gold, Yellow, Red and Eaglehawk.

The winery sources the grapes from a mosaic of regions - Clare, Eden, Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Padthaway.

It has also started getting grapes in Wrattonbully, a northern area in Coonawarra known for its elegant grapes with plummy notes.

Expect more innovations from the Wolf Blass label.

As the progressive winemaker himself stated: 'If our overseas markets don't do well, we won't have to worry about lacking water, because we can drown ourselves in wine.'

TASTE TEST

There are two wines under the Grey Label - the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz. A luscious Shiraz with dominant notes of black pepper and whiffs of mocha on the nose. Concentrated black cherry flavours, backed with supple oak and silky tannins.

PAIR WITH

Grilled red meats such as wagyu beef.

AVAILABILITY

Jason's Supermarket, Marketplace, DFS, Fairprice Finest.

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