Bali now has a real Thai restaurant! Not only does it serve high quality traditional Thai cuisine, but many of the dishes are from that elusive Royal Cuisine category (recipes which require extensive preparation and 'attention to detail'), first created in the palace kitchens of the old Kings of Siam.

Blossom, the restaurant, is at Sentosa Private Villas. It is a combination of elegant dining, comfortable lounge area, and a landscaped swimming pool with a rock wall background. Water is everywhere, beyond the extensive duck-boarding and recliners. Très chic!

While the offerings at Blossom are predominately Thai, a few dishes do have other Asian influences. Executive Chef Will Meyrick, although a Scot, developed his Thai cooking skills in Sydney at Longrain with ex-Darley Street Thai's Martin Boetz, where he became Head Chef. This was followed by setting up the trendy Jimmy Liks, followed by the successful opening of Husk at Sofitel Seminyak two years ago. Subsequent stints in Hong Kong and Thailand's Koh Samui have only added to his repertoire. While in Thailand he was re-united with Thai chef Palm Amatawet, who is now the Head Chef at Blossom.

What could be simpler than to place a piece of fresh salmon on a betel leaf and top it with shrimp, galangal and salmon roe? Devour it in one big mouthful, a total taste sensation.

The Chicken & Prawn Eggnet reflects the preparation needed for this cuisine. Chicken and prawns are combined with coconut, caramel, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts and mint, then rolled in a net of egg. The Grilled Scallops (below) are another example of simple ingredients becoming complex combinations of taste. A trio of fat scallops, each sitting on a ceramic spoon, topped with shreds of sweet pork, lime leaves, coconut, Thai basil and a peanut nam jihm. Eat it with a smile on your face as this entrée is too good to share!

Thai salads are so refreshing, and this is where some of the wildest taste combinations can be found. A classic is the Crisp Salmon tossed with watermelon, mint, Thai basil and roasted chilli with a shallot dressing.

Lime-cured Snapper (top picture) is tossed with shredded green mango, lemongrass, rose apple and dried shrimp. Slightly sour, these types of dishes make an important contribution to a Thai table where all the different tastes should be there to be taken, one spoon at a time, in between mouthfuls of steamed Jasmine rice. Amazingly, there are no blossoms in the salads at Blossom. How about a great Banana Flower Salad on the next menu, Mr. Meyrick?

Meat is served with some of the most intense sauces and flavours found in Thai cuisine. The Panang of slowly-braised Beef Cheeks is a dish that must be sampled to be appreciated. Rich beef taste, yet so tender, the Panang taste a perfect match.

Then there is the Pork Hock! A tamarind tamerillo sauce makes the small crunchy pieces very sweet, a dash of the accompanying nam pla prik cuts the sweetness, a complete contrast. On a recent visit there was also a wonderful Chiang Mai Sausage (very fiery), and a rich, ambrosial Massaman of Duck.

Asian desserts are often boring to western tastes, or so I have found. Not at Blossom - in fact they are so good it is hard to choose. A poached egg is combined with pandan rice flour balls and pumpkin balls in coconut milk. A Crisp Shallot & Taro Cake is with candied baby mandarins and ice cream. Young Coconut Jelly is with crushed ice and a jackfruit, lychee and passion fruit sorbet. Do it the easy way, as I do, and ask for the Sample Plate, with which you get 3-4 small tastes from the dessert selection.

The wine list, just like all else here, is sheer quality. It includes a few very special treats. A fine dining Thai restaurant is rare anywhere in the world - now there is one in Bali!

Blossom is destined to become one of Bali's and maybe Asia's great restaurants for style, taste and value!

Blossom
Sentosa Private Villas,
Kerobokan, Bali
Tel: (62-361) 730.333
Open: Breakfast/Brunch from 7.00 a.m. (a non-Thai menu, modern cafe style)
Lunch/Dinner (Thai menu) till 11.00 p.m., daily
Price: $80 for two [+ drinks]

This is an abridged version of the full review that appears on the BaliEats web site, Bali's comprehensive restaurant guide: www.balieats.com