I was brought up to think of fermented beans as 'poverty food'. I grew up with Cantonese phrases such as 'poke fermented beans', which is used on someone who has lived beyond his means and now needs a more austere lifestyle. It's an expression that means this person shouldn't be eating much more than preserved beans.

Nowadays, however, I think of fermented beans as the perfect food when I've been a glutton. And here is a luxe version: Japanese chilli miso paste.

You can eat a bowl of rice or two with this thin paste of cut green chillis and beans. It's fiery, sour, salty, slightly sweet and so tasty, you might not need other dishes.

For the more repentant, this paste will make a good dip for raw vegetables like cucumber too.

Chilli miso paste, $7.50 for 140g, from Isetan supermarket, Shaw House, tel: 6733-1111. Opening hours: 10am to 9.30pm daily.