LIFESTYLE netted Chef Eldwin Chua, 30, the owner of Taste Paradise restaurant in Chinatown's Mosque Street, to do a taste test of the 12 steamed fish-head dishes in the food centre. His benchmark: The sauce must not be too starchy, too spicy or sweet; and the fish must be steamed just right to achieve a smooth texture. Finally, the fish, sauce and toppings must complement one another.

Here are his top three picks:

Winner: Yang Ji
Stall number: 01-194

Dish: Garlic steamed fish head
Price: $16
Stall chef Huang De Ming, 70, has been selling the dish for over 20 years in Chinatown and at Lavender Street. He said he sells eight to 10 plates of the dish a day.
Chef's verdict: Though this method of steaming the fish with garlic is pretty common, this dish tastes really different. The garlic is minced with ginger - a combination that works. It also kills off the usually muddy taste of the fish.The fish, however, was a little over- steamed.

First runner-up: Au Men Feng Chen Xiao Chu
Stall number: 01-184

Dish: Steamed fish head in bean sauce
Price: $12
This stall has been in the business for about four years. It used to sell porridge at the old Chinatown site. The chef's wife, He Yu Lan, told LifeStyle that her husband Wu Shun Jia used to work in a restaurant. They switched to selling steamed fish head as he was good at cooking the dish. The stall gets between 10 and 30 orders a day.
Chef's verdict: The not-too-starchy sauce has the right texture. The combination of bean and garlic flavours makes it really tasty. The ginger and garlic add to the aroma, and help take away the muddy taste. The fish meat has been steamed well; it has a smooth texture.

Second runner-up: Chen Ji
Stall number: 01-160

Dish: Steamed fish head in hot sauce
Price: $13
This stall was one of the first to sell the dish, and it is said to be the most famous stall. Chef Chen Chim Yan, 53, said he started the business more than 20 years ago, and gets 30 to 40 orders a day.
Chef's verdict: The steaming skill of the chef is the best among the 12 stalls.The meat melts in the mouth and there's no muddy taste. The gravy's a perfect blend of sweet and sour, and is not too rich. But the sauce is a little too starchy, and the dish would have been better with crispy lard pieces on top.

Chef Chua rates the nine other stalls

Name: Jia Xiang Xiao Chu
Stall number: 01-209
Dish: Steamed fish head with crispy bean crumbs
Price: $15
Chef's verdict: The fish is a little overdone and the gravy is simply normal supreme soya sauce. This causes the dish to be slightly lacking in texture and aroma.
However, the crispy bean crumbs sprinkled on the fish are well done. They are crispy but not over-fried, and go well with the garlic.

Name: An Ji
Stall number: 01-222
Dish: Preserved bean sauce steamed fish head
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: The gravy is too starchy. It has too much salt too, I am not impressed. Still, the fish is steamed just right and the texture's really smooth.

Name: Heng Kee
Stall number: 01-225
Dish: Steamed fish in hot sauce
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: The texture is smooth, the lard crispy, and the gravy has just the right texture. The spice level is just right.

Name: Wen Ji
Stall number: 01-152
Dish: Steamed fish head in bean sauce
Price: $10
Chef's verdict: The gravy is too starchy, and it lacks character - you get only the bean taste. It is not spicy and lacks aroma. The fish is steamed just right, but I doubt that I would eat it again.

Name: Shen Chen
Stall number: 01-151
Dish: Steamed fish head in black bean sauce
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: This dish is unique because of the black bean sauce, which is not too salty or sweet. Chinese wine has been added into the gravy, making it more fragrant. There is also a generous spread of garlic in the sauce. However,the fish is quite overdone.

Name: Xin Long
Stall number: 01-197
Dish: Steamed fish head in bean sauce
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: Not bad. Instead of using whole bean paste, the chef uses the crushed beans version, and the taste blends well into the sauce. The sauce is of the right texture too; however, I find it a little too sweet.

Name: 123 Wu Wei Xiang
Stall number: 01-216
Dish: Steamed fish head in bean sauce
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: This dish uses crushed bean paste too. Although the bean taste is a little strong, there is a small amount of gravy, and that reduces the saltiness of the dish. However, the sauce is a little diluted.

Name: Song Ji
Stall number: 01-168
Dish: Steamed fish head in bean sauce
Price: $13
Chef's verdict: This dish is not very exciting. I believe the chef has added lime, but this does not complement the sauce well. Instead, it gives it a salty taste. The fish is also a little overdone.

Name: Lam Kee Delicious Food
Stall number: 02-041
Dish: Steamed fish head with sauce
Price: $14
Chef's verdict: Taste-wise, the fish itself is all right. The texture of the sauce is very good, and the chef has blended ginger and garlic into the sauce well. However, the sauce is a little salty.